How To Determine the Age of a Tree

So you may have heard that you can count a tree’s age by counting the interior rings, but what if you want to determine the age of a tree that is still standing, and you’re not sure of the year that it was planted?

The good news is that determining the age of a tree is a simple process that doesn’t require tree felling, core boring, or other methods that might harm the tree. In this article, we break it down step-by-step. While there is a little bit of math involved, it’s nothing more complicated than some basic geometry…


To start, simply measure the circumference of the tree using a “soft” measuring tape (used for measuring fabric). Make sure to measure the breadth of the tree at chest height, or roughly 4.5 feet from the ground.

The next step will be to take your circumference, and to divide it by pi (3.14). From there, you can find the radius by dividing the diameter in half by 2. For example:

126 inch circumference

126 inches ÷ 3.14 (pi) = 40 inches (diameter)

40 inches (diameter) ÷ 2 = 20 inches (radius)

To make our measurement as precise as possible, we’ll now want to subtract the thickness of the bark from the radius. Depending on the the species of the tree, we’ll want to subtract anywhere between 0.25 in – 1.00 in. For quick reference, black oak trees will tend to have a thickness of around 1 inch, while birch trees will have a thinner bark of around 0.25 inches. If you’re just looking for a ballpark, your best bet is to use 0.5 inches as a nice happy medium!

20 inches (radius) – 0.5 inches = 19.5 inches (radius without the bark)

Going forward, it will be helpful to track down a similar tree of the same species that has been felled. For example, perhaps you’ve had a tree on your property that has fallen or has been cut down with the stump in tact. By measuring the radius and counting the number of rings, you’ll end up with the average ring width. For example:

Let’s say we come across a tree stump with a 30 inch radius and 120 rings…

30 inch radius ÷ 120 rings = 0.25 inches (average ring width)

NOTE: In this case, we are assuming that the average ring width will be the same for the tree that you are looking to measure. Since they are the same species of tree, and in the same geographical location, we can safely say that the two trees will have the same ring width.

Now that we have the radius (minus the thickness of the bark) and the average ring width, we have all the pertinent information that we need. Time to put it all together!

To estimate the age of the tree, divide the radius by the average ring width. Continuing along with our example:

19.5 inches (radius) ÷ 0.25 inches (average ring width)



Alternatively, if you don’t happen to have a stump on your property to compare with, you’ll be able to Google the average growth rate of the tree in question for most species. Keep in mind that growth rates may differ between forested versus urban areas so you may want to consider using two different growth rates, calculating the age of the tree, and then averaging them together.

In this example, you can divide the circumference of the tree by the average annual growth rate.

126 inches (circumference) ÷ 1.25 inches (annual growth rate) =


NOTE: The results of this method may differ first method, but not to worry – both methods of calculating a tree’s age are more like rough estimates than precise measurements.

And there you have it! In just a few basic steps using the methods above, you’ll be able to estimate the age of your trees using nothing more than some simple math and a measuring tape.

4 Benefits of Mature Trees on Your Property

Four Benefits of Using Mature Trees on Your Property

If you’ve every made your way through a new development, you’ll notice that one of the finishing touches that are placed on the new property (retail or new housing developments) are several trees that the new owners hope will grow to maturity. There’s something about a tree-lined street that draws you in and adds that special neighborhood comfort. 

When a neighborhood lined with large trees, there’s definitely something appealing about it. Trees naturally add visual interest in any neighborhood or yard. They frame the space and draws your eyes in closer. In fact, studies show that neighborhoods with lots of trees create a more desirable place to live in. Not only do trees add visual appeal to a property, they also have several other benefits! 

Tree service and tree trimming

Higher Appraised Value
Mature trees on your property can raise the value of your home. A mature tree can add upwards of a $10,000 appraised value on your home. If your tree is well kept and is surrounded by beautiful landscape, it greatly increases the price of your home.
Fruit trees actually don’t add value to your property. Fruit trees can be challenging to clean up and often draw in wild animals, so it’s often the homeowner’s personal preference. But overall, other types of trees increase your home’s value!

Keeps Noise Levels Down
If you’ve ever lived near a major highway or street, you know that noise pollution can be a real issue! Trees can function as sound barriers for neighborhoods that experience lots of noise from either traffic or nearby businesses. Trees can work to either absorb or deflect noise, or even work together to achieve both. Large leaf trees or evergreens are particularly better-equipped to trap noise. Also, taller trees make better noise barriers than shorter ones. 

Cleaner Air
If you live in Denver, you know that clean air is a big deal and the city is doing it’s best to minimize pollution. Air quality also impacts your health and that’s where trees can play a role to help offer cleaner air! Trees help remove CO2 and other gases from the air. Essentially, they trap the carbon dioxide and turn it back into oxygen. 

Because trees offer shade during the summer months and warmth during the winter, it lessons are reliability on fossil fuels, since we need to run the air conditioner and heat less. This reduces pollution that gets put back into the air. 

Save On Energy Costs
Planting trees in specific parts of your property could potentially save you hundreds of dollars per year in energy savings! Planting trees that have falling leaves (deciduous) on the west side of your home can provide shade during those Summer months. While in the Winter, after the trees have shed their leaves, it will provide more sunshine and heat for your home. 

Planting evergreen trees on the north side of your home can also block strong winds during those Colorado Winter months. They can help minimize the amount of wind that might move through your home.

Better for Stress
Studies show that trees help people who struggle with anxiety and stress. In fact, more and more mental health professionals and doctors are prescribing nature as a form of therapy for people coping with high levels of stress. Also, forest bathing, a practice where people immerse themselves in a forest has shown tremendous amounts of health benefits. 

Exposure to trees not only helps boost our immune systems, but it also improves mood, increases energy, and improves sleep. There are numerous studies that show that simply looking at trees reduces blood pressure and also stress-related hormones. The takeaway here is that not only are trees good for your pocketbook, but they are also great for your mental health!

Best Trees to Plant In Denver

Trees are a huge investment to make, so considering the right one for your region is a very important decision. You need to take into consideration the soil and especially the climate before just planting any tree. Be aware that oftentimes, many nurseries will provide tree options that might not even be suitable for your region. You’ll need to do your research before deciding on what tree to buy and plant for the Denver area. Colorado’s climate varies from North to South, East to West, so not every species is suitable for various parts of the state.

Before Buying Your Tree
There are many things to consider before purchasing a tree to plant. Trees can often outlive the homeowner, so keep in mind that the tree needs to be suitable for the future homeowner’s needs. Your decision can greatly influence generations to come!

A couple of things to consider are the size of your property and if there’s enough space for your tree to grow to its full height. Keep in mind that this doesn’t just mean the space above, but also the space below. The root systems can often grow two – three times the height of the tree. Determine the growth rate of the tree and also the form of the tree. Will your tree’s branches look more like a column, will they spread or will they have a more pyramid shape? This will help you determine the right space for your tree.

You’ll also need to pay attention to how much sunlight your tree will need to get. Make sure that there’s no overcrowding with trees that are already in place in your yard or neighborhood. You don’t want your trees fighting for sunlight, nutrients, or water.

Trees You Should Avoid Planting In Denver
There are many species of trees that you avoid planting. These trees are highly susceptible to disease and infestation. The following lists of trees can also be invasive and spread out, causing damage to Denver’s precious ecosystem and native plants. 

Species not recommended are: non-native cottonwoods, siberian elms, willows, russian olive, silver maple, aspen, and austree. 

Trees to Plant in Denver:

  • Engligh Oak
  • Bur Oak
  • Hackberry
  • American Elm
  • Littleleaf Linden
  • Sycamore
  • Norway Maple
  • Black Walnut
  • Gynko
  • Mayday Tree
  • Canyon Maple

Selecting the Right Tree

You want to make sure and select the highest quality tree when you’re out searching, that way you avoid issues in the future. Here are a few trips for purchasing a healthy tree:

  • Your tree should be free from insects
  • Choose a tree whose roots are not bound up
  • Pick a tree that does not have any obvious damage to trunk or roots
  • Most of the tree foliage should be concentrated at the top of the tree
  • The branches should be spread out evenly
  • Root system should be moist (not brittle or dry)
  • Container of tree should not contain circling roots
  • Bark should look healthy 
  • Tree should not contain discoloration or signs of fungus

Keeping Your New Tree Healthy

  • Maintain a consistent level of moisture by watering every 3-5 days
  • Use 10 gallons of water per inch of tree diameter
  • Apply mulch to help conserve moisture levels
  • Limit pruning to only when needed to make corrections (removing broken or torn branches)
  • Maintain a single dominant leader on your young tree and don’t allow the secondary branches to get ahead
  • Stake your tree to avoid it from shifting, after it was just planted

As always, if you have any questions feel free to contact one of our tree service professionals if you need additional advice!

Preventing Roots From Damaging Your Home/Business

When our customer called us a few years ago, he was frustrated to find that he had issues with his sewer lines that extended out from his house. When the plumber investigated the issue, he found that the large trees in front of his house were damaging the sewer lines. Their 100 year old tree’s roots had found their way into the sewer lines causing broken pipes and resulted in enormous unexpected expenses for the homeowner. 

No homeowner wants their tree to damage their property or surrounding properties, but unfortunately tree roots can cause a great deal of damage, especially trees that may have been planted too close to a home decades ago. 

Here’s a few things as a homeowner to be aware of when it comes to root damage to your property and what you can do about it. 

Be Aware of Trees in Your Yard and Types of Root Systems They Have
All trees have different root systems and they are very important to determine when it comes to potential property damage. Trees like oak, ash, douglas fir, poplar all have what are called “tap roots”. Taproots pose a problem because they extend not only deep, but vertically, as well. They can extend up to two to three times the height of the tree too. Other trees have more lateral roots and do not penetrate deep into the soil, but can cause an extensive amount of damage, as well. Trees like cottonwood or the weeping willow may not be deep-rooted, but they can be invasive and cause damage to foundations because their roots spread rapidly and extensively. 

Identifying the trees in your yard can help you determine what kind of potential damage your tree may cause! 

How Roots Damage Property
Roots that are more lateral can do a lot of damage to the foundation of a property. Because these roots are are invasive and tend to not extend too deep, they tend to damage foundations due to their shallow root systems. If there are already cracks in your foundation, the root systems can easily find their way into the cracks and can cause further damage. This can also happen in sidewalks, driveways, patios and even roads!

Trees that are more deeply rooted can damage your sewer lines, plumbing and even the foundation around your home. These trees root’s require and absorb a lot of water. If that water is constantly being pulled from underneath your foundation the changes in moisture levels can cause the foundation to become unsettled. 

These deep tree roots can also wreck havoc on your pluming/sewer lines. Trees are always looking for water sources and plumbing can be a perfect source for that. A small crack in your plumbing system can trigger roots to find a steady source of water. Clogged drains, less water flow, and changes in water pressure can be a sign that you potentially have a problem with roots finding their way into your plumbing. 

Ways to Prevent or Stop Root Damage to Your Property

  • Find out where your sewer lines are located. Call your local municipality!
  • Create a barrier between your tree and the sewer line through chemical means (copper sulfate and potassium hydroxide are common), metal, or wood. 
  • Install one of these barriers before you plant the tree.
  • Don’t plant trees near the sewer lines.
  • Call a plumber to assess any drainage issues and prevent further damage. 
  • Call a tree trimming expert to cut away the portion of the tree causing damage.
  • Cut down the tree and remove the root system that’s causing damage.

Before decided what is the best way to stop root damage, it’s important to call one of our professionals to assess the situation. We can easily determine what type of root system you have an also identify the best solution for you. 

How To Properly Plant A Tree

Our customer’s father passed away suddenly and one of the gifts she received from her father-in-law was a tree to honor her late father. The gift of the young tree was so precious to her that she wanted to make sure it was well-planted in her backyard so that she could enjoy the tree for years to come and remember her father. She reached out to us for guidance, as she was concerned that her tree be planted far enough from her house as not to cause future damage, that the tree received enough sunlight, and also that she was able to care for it to see it mature into a strong and healthy tree. 

If you’d like to plant your own tree, there are a few things you can do to make sure that your tree is properly planted so that it lives a long and healthy life!
ToolsWhen it comes to tools, there isn’t much you need other than a trusty shovel (for digging), a tape measure, a stake (to mark the location), some spray paint (for marking the location) and a garden hose (for watering)! 

Decide Where To Place Tree
The first thing you need to do is decide where exactly you want the tree to be placed. It’s important to stay at least fifteen feet away from any structures (like your home or neighbor’s house), sidewalks, driveways, other trees, and power lines. Once you’ve determined that you are clear from houses and other structures, you can mark exactly where you want to place the tree. Our recommendation is that you place a stake in the ground so that you can measure the diameter for the root ball. 
Next, take out your can of spray paint and mark a circle (using the stake as a guide). You will need the circle to be 2-3 times wider than the size of the root ball. An easy trick is to also use a piece of string or rope as a guide to make the perfect circle!

Prepping Your Tree for Planting
Now, you’ll need to prep the tree to get it ready to be planted. You’ll first need to loosen and remove some of the soil from the top of the root ball. Just scrape off enough soil so that you see some of the roots showing. Once you’ve done that, you can now measure the root ball itself so that you can properly determine the the depth that the hole should be. You’ll want to measure from the bottom of the root ball to the top. You’ll then start to dig a a hole as deep as the root ball!

Start Digging
Make sure and grab your tape measure to check the depth of the hole you’re digging along the way. When you’ve gone far enough down, level out the bottom of your hole so that it is flat. Now, fill the bottom of the hole with a light dusting of fertilizer so your tree has a good start with healthy nutrient dense soil.  

Place Your Tree In The Hole
Once you’ve filled the soil with fertilizer, it’s now time to drop your young tree into the hole. This should be done with the utmost of care, since the tree is in a very delicate state. You’ll want to position the tree correctly and make sure that it’s not leaning. Also, be sure to remove any burlap or twine that might be holding the root ball together. You can snip this away when the tree is placed appropriately in the hole. Loosen the roots, as well, as they often get tightly compacted!

Backfill Your Hole
Now you are ready to backfill the hole with soil! Before you start adding back in the soil, take some time to mix in fertilizer, so your tree has more nutrients in the soil surrounding it. Start by adding the soil back into the hole and water thoroughly after all the has been added back in. 

Add Mulch Around Your Tree
As the final step, add mulch around the tree to keep the moisture, nutrients, and soil in place! Keep the mulch away from the tree trunk because it can often lead to rot. Make sure and water your tree each day to keep it moisturized!

Simple Pruning Techniques

Pruning of trees requires:

  • Knowledge of when, why and how to initiate the desired pruning techniques.
  • Years of experience in the field.
  • Skills must be developed and refined to be able to manipulate the appropriate concepts and tools needed for pruning.
  • An understanding as to how the tree evolved from a seed.
  • A great respect for trees, the time it takes for its growth, its size, strength and awesome beauty.
  • Ability to “see” the future growth, or sense that certain twigs or branches will develop in ways that would not fit well with the tree’s overall function… so they can be trimmed to redirect development.

Why do we need to prune trees?

Trees need pruning for several reasons:

  • Improves natural form and appearance.
  • Improves branch spacing.
  • Strengthens branch attachment.
  • Invigorates or slows branch growth rate.
  • Improves stability by reducing wind resistance.
  • Removes dead, weakened, injured, diseased or insect-damaged branches.
  • Increases lighting to the interior.
  • Reduces hazard potential.

Practices Pruning Standards In Accordance with the International Society of Arboriculture(ISA)

Trees and other woody plants respond in specific and predictable ways to pruning and other maintenance practices. Careful study of these responses has led to pruning practices which best preserve and enhance the beauty, structural integrity, and functional value of trees.

In an effort to promote practices which encourage the preservation of tree structure and health, the ISA Certification Committee has established guidelines, recognizing that trees are individually unique in form and structure, and that their pruning needs may not always fit strict rules. The Certified Arborists must take responsibility for special pruning practices that vary greatly from these Standards. The following is a summary of the ISA Standards

Pruning Techniques

Thinning Cut

  • Removes a branch at its point of attachment or shortens it to a lateral.
  • Opens up a tree removing primarily dead, crossing or diseased branches.
  • No more than one-third of the live foliage should be removed.
  • May reduce a tree’s height.
  • Distributes resultant invigoration throughout a tree and helps retain the tree’s natural shape.
  • Can safely be accomplished anytime of the year.
  • Preferred in tree pruning.

Heading Cut

  • Removes a branch to a stud, a bud or a lateral branch.
  • Should be seldom be used because hearty, weekly attached upright sprouts are forced just below such cuts, and the tree’s natural form is altered.
  • May result in stubs dying off or producing only weak sprouts.

Pruning cuts

  • Should be clean and smooth with the bark at the edge of the cut firmly attached to the wood.

Large or Heavy Branches

  • That cannot be thrown clear, should be lowered on ropes to prevent injury.

Wound dressings and tree paints

  • Have not been shown to be effective in preventing or reducing decay.
  • Are not recommended for routine use when pruning.

Types of Pruning – Mature Trees

Crown Cleaning

  • Removal of dead, dying, diseased, crowded, weakly attached, and low-vigor branches and water sprouts from a tree crown.

Crown Thinning

  • Includes crown cleaning and the selective removal of branches to increase light infiltration and air movement into the crown.
  • Stimulates and maintains interior foliage, which in turn improves branch taper and strength.
  • Reduces weight of important limbs.
  • Emphasizes the structural beauty of trunk and branches while improving the growth of plants beneath the tree by increasing light infiltration.

Crown Reduction

  • Used to reduce the height and/or spread of the tree.
  • Thinning cuts are most effective in maintaining the structural integrity and natural for of a tree and in delaying the time when it will be pruned again.
  • The lateral to which a branch or trunk is cut should be at least one-half the diameter of the cut being made.

Crown Restoration

  • Improves the structure and the appearance of trees that have been topped or severely pruned using heading cuts.
  • One to three sprouts on main branch
    • stubs should be selected to reform a more natural appearing crown.
    • Selected vigorous sprouts may need to be thinned to a lateral, or even headed, to control length growth in order to ensure adequate attachment for the size of the sprout.
    • Restoration may require several pruning over a number of years.
    Crown Raising
    • Removes lower branches of a tree in order to provide clearance for buildings, vehicles, pedestrians, and vistas.
    • At least one-half of the trees foliage should be left on branches that originate in the lower two-thirds of its trunk to ensure a well-formed, tapered structure and to uniformly distribute stress within a tree.
    • When pruning for view, it is preferable to develop “windows” through the foliage of the tree, rather than to severely raise or reduce the crown.

How to Keep Your Trees Healthy

Mature trees are a valuable asset in your yard for several reasons. Not only do they provide curb appeal, making your home look beautiful, they also offer additional benefits like shade or keeping your home cool during the summer months. Tree replacement and services can be very costly, so it’s important to protect your investments by keeping your trees as healthy as possible and investing in the long-term look of your yard. 

Prune Your Trees

Pruning a tree means to cut off dead branches so that you can stimulate growth. But did you know that you can prune your tree at any time of the year, even during the dead of Winter when the tree has halted it’s growth period? Pruning can be a way that you can thin out your tree and remove some of the dead or diseased limbs. This can be important because it prevents overcrowding with our limbs, which can stimulate growth and give your tree some curb appeal. It’s important not to get too carried away or you can do more damage to the tree. Hiring an expert to do some meticulous pruning can save you the headache or stress of trying to do it yourself!

Feed Your Trees

Giving your tree the right nutrients and water is important to not only stimulate growth, but also keeps your tree healthy. Trees need fertilizer to not only help them grow strong and tall, but it can also make them more resilient. They are much more likely to stand-up to diseases and pests. Watering your tree is also essential to its health. If you’re wondering how much water you should give your tree, it primarily depends on the soil and also your climate. Obviously, regions with more rainfall require less watering! If you’re going through a particularly dry spell or drought, pay attention to watering your trees more often. During Colorado’s Winter months, there’s no need to water your tree during these dormant months when there isn’t a growing period. Summer months, where Colorado can be much more dry is when you want to make sure that your soil around the tree is moisturized.

Mulch Around Your Trees

Mulch is often something that most people forget when thinking about tree health. Mulch, such as wood chips, pine needles, grass clippings, bark, or gravel offer several benefits. It can prevent weeds from getting enough sunlight, which will keep all of the nutrients going to your tree instead of using it all up for their own growth. Mulch also keeps the soil moist. This will ensure that all the nutrients stay around the tree and that it doesn’t get washed away during those Summer rains. Mulch can keep the soil from becoming too compact. It helps reduce compaction that might occur in areas with lots of foot traffic.

Protect the Roots

Healthy roots are so important for a tree’s health. As mentioned above, compaction of the soil can impact a tree’s health. One of the ways that trees get nutrients into their tree roots is through oxygen. A tree’s roots needs air space to get oxygen, when a tree’s soil is compacted through foot traffic or even near-by construction, it can halt the tree’s ability to get proper water, oxygen, and fertilizer into the root system.

Healthy roots are essential for healthy trees, which means healthy soil is also critical. Oxygen is necessary for nutrient absorption by tree roots, which is why healthy soil has air space. Compacted soil is one of the biggest threats to tree roots because compaction impedes water infiltration and oxygen into the root zone.

What to Do Next

If you’re concerned about the health of your tree, be sure to reach out to one of our professionals who can help give a proper diagnosis or give guidance on how you can better protect your trees and keep them in tip-top shape for years to come!

Easy Ways to Tell If Your Tree is Alive or Dead

A few years ago, one of our customers came to us in a panic after one of their large Cottonwood trees fell on their garage only a week before new buyers were about to close on their home. They were justifiably upset that this could potentially prevent the buyers from purchasing their home. In addition, they only had a week to repair the damage that the fallen tree did to their garage.

When these customers had purchased their home ten years prior, they noticed that the tree looked sickly, but thought nothing of it. The tree (no longer budding leaves) showed signs of being sick, but it seemed to withstand all the summer storms that came with strong Colorado winds. Although advised by several people, they didn’t understand the safety issues that come with sick or dead trees until it was too late.

It’s important to take the time to examine your trees to determine their health. You can also ask one of our professional arborists to provide you with a free diagnostic assessment of your trees. There are several ways you can also examine trees on your own!

Photo by Pixabay on

Signs of Your Tree’s Health

Often there are straightforward signs that your tree is alive or dead. You might see rotting branches falling off or you could also see year around dead leaves covering your tree, but there is a much easier way to determine if your tree is still alive and maybe feeling a little under-the-weather.

Remember, sick trees can always be saved through a little care, but a dead tree is beyond repair and will need to be removed. That way it doesn’t do any potential damage to either you or your property.

How to Take a Health Assessment of Your Tree

While it’s always important to call professional to make an assessment, you can always use this quick trick to determine the health of your tree. First, using either your fingernail or a sharp knife, scratch the surface of one of the tree branches or twigs. If you peel away some of the surface, you should reveal a moist green layer underneath. If it looks dry, brittle or brown that is a good indication that your tree is dead.

After you’ve finished inspecting the first branch, move on to other areas. Scratch a few other surfaces on twigs or branches to look for signs of a healthy tree (moist and green). Also, look for other signs that can indicate a tree’s health. 

  • Do you see mold and fungus growing on one side of the tree or near the base?
  • Is the trunk peeling its bark or have cracks/splits down it?
  • If you look at the canopy, are there dead leaves, missing leaves, or dead hanging branches?
Photo by Mahima on

If your tree fails to pass any of these tests, you should reach out to one of our professionals to determine if your tree is sick (and can be saved) or if its time to remove your tree and avoid damage to your home (or the neighbor’s home!). Our certified professionals can inspect your tree in person and provide a diagnosis along with a treatment plan. 

Signs Your Tree is Dying

When you’re going on a hike out in the Colorado woods, you may notice trees that are dying around you. In nature, a dying tree is a perfectly natural part of the our eco-system’s lifecycle. A dying tree in a forest helps contribute to wildlife habitat, cycling nutrients, helping with plant regeneration, limiting erosion, and assisting with drainage/soil moisture, and carbon storage. There are so many ways that a dead tree gives back to nature.

Photo by Daniel Frank on

A tree that dies in your backyard, however, poses several problems for your property and the surrounding area. It’s important to determine if your tree is dying or just sick. Below are a few warning signs to help you understand whether your tree is merely sick or that it’s dead. Of course, it’s always helpful to reach out to a certified and licensed tree expert for further examination to help you make the best assessment!

Bare branches

A common sign that your tree might be dying is when you start to see several dead branches. If your tree is not budding new leaves in the Spring or it’s bare in the Summer months, this is a good indication that there is a problem. A healthy tree will have leaf coverage on all the branches during specific seasons, like Summer. If you have dead branches on only one side of your tree, it’s often a sign that there is serious root damage or something wrong with the trunk that might be unseen by an untrained eye. Having an arborist come out to inspect the tree can help give you guidance on what might be happening!

Photo by on


When you see a lot of fungus growing on the trunk of a tree, it’s another sign that your tree could be dying. Foliar/shoot type fungusis the most common type of fungus that you might see sprouting on one side of your tree. These might resemble large mushrooms that are clustered together. Not only do these cause cosmetic damage, but they also are a sign that your tree is experiencing internal rot. 

Photo by Marcus Lange on

Leaning Tree

When your tree starts to die, it will begin lean due to the roots losing their structure and their ability to hold the tree upright in the soil. When you see a tree start to lean suddenly vs. a tree having a more natural bend, it can be a sign of structural issues. You can tell if the lean is about structural issues by looking at the soil around the tree to see if there are cracks or heaving. We recommend that you keep a close eye on the tree to see if the leaning gets worse.  Trees leaning 15 degrees away from their original vertical position aren’t doing so well. 

Photo by Mike Andrei on

Dead Bark

Areas of dead bark or cankers that show up on trees are signs of fungal or bacterial infections. These infections can get beneath the tree’s surface and can open wounds. This can cause the bark to become sunken or for it all to fall off the tree resulting in exposure to the elements. A tree with several cankers can easily cause the tree to break or fall apart. 

Photo by Kaboompics .com on

Finding Resources

If you don’t feel comfortable identifying your tree’s health, consult on of our professionals. Oftentimes, agricultural extensions provided by universities can help you determine your tree’s health.

What To Do Next

You can also reach out to an arborist, like one of our experts! These individuals can help you determine the health of your tree and if a removal is necessary. If it is, many arborists can help you with that as well!